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Adding a Bit of Sparkle
I am so excited about the May 2006 club event, because there is no better wine than a great Champagne in my mind. Nothing makes you feel more like a party than sparkling wine. Just to be clear on the terminology, sparkling wine is any wine that has bubbles, including Champagne. While we often use the terms interchangeably, technically, Champagne is sparkling wine that is produced in the Champagne region of France.
Champagne remains the world’s number one bubbly, but producers in Tasmania are attempting a serious coup, as are the rebels in nearby New Zealand, not to mention a few renegades in the fog-bound coastal valleys of California. Believe it or not, even England is capable of turning out a few decent sparklers. These regions can excel at sparkling wine production because the best sparkling wines are made in cooler climates.
Arguably, the best area for nurturing these special wines though is Champagne. East of Paris, it’s the most northerly wine-growing region in France. The grapes there struggle to ripen fully in the five key growing areas, and are rather tart until transformed by the Champagne method. So, why is Champagne favored above others? Perhaps the answer lies in the hundreds of years of cultural experience. Over the centuries, winemakers in Champagne have artfully mastered the skills required to juggle difficult fruit from different years with the subtle yeast flavors the wine acquires as it lays aging in the cellars.
How Sparkling wine is Made
You may be asking, how exactly is sparkling wine made to sparkle? The truth is there are many different ways of making sparkling wine. The three methods described below all share one commonality, and that is a second fermentation. It’s during this secondary fermentation process, when a little more sugar and yeast are added, that the bubbles are produced. A fourth method, which is hardly worth mentioning, is called carbonation, and involves simply injecting carbon dioxide directly into the wine, much the way soda is made. Carbonation is the least successful in creating effervescence, and is used only for very inexpensive wines.
The classic method of creating sparkling wine (Méthode Traditionelle or Méthode Champenoise) is used for Champagne, Cava, Crémant, Blanquette de Limoux, good New World bubblies, Italian Metodo Classico, and some German Sekt. It involves blending the base wines, adding the yeast and sugar, then bottling and stacking the wine on its side to wait patiently for a minimum of 18 months until the secondary fermentation occurs. To finish off the process, the bottles are placed neck first into a rack known as a pupitres and rotated gradually over the course of a month or so to cause the sediment (lees) to fall to the cork. Then, the necks of the bottles are frozen. When the cork is removed the frozen sediment pops out and the wine is topped off with a little more wine along with liquid sugar (known as the dosage). Once it is corked and tied down with wire, it is left to settle for a few months. Et voilà—sparkling wine!
Many New World producers use the transfer method. It’s the next best thing to the classic method for creating quality sparkling wine. In the case of the transfer method, the secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle, but afterward, the wine is transferred under pressure to tanks. The dosage is placed in the tanks and the wine is filtered before being re-bottled.
The most common method of producing sparkling wine today is the tank method. Cheap, easy French, Spanish, most German Sekt, and most Asti Spumante are created in this manner. Using the tank method, the base wine is run into huge stainless steel tanks where the secondary fermentation takes place at controlled temperatures, followed by dosage, filtering and bottling.
Any of these three methods can produce good sparkling wine, although the classic method is considered best for bringing out the flavors of the grapes. The method used, dosage, and time allowed for aging will all impact the end result, but what truly influences the outcome and taste is the blend of the base wines. This blend, which is called the cuvée, can contain as many as 40 different still wines, and it takes an enormous amount of experience to predict what those wines will do to the finished product.
The best base wines for making bubbly are generally those with high acidity and little character, hence the reason cooler climates produce better sparkling wines. Most producers will stick to the basics—those that are used in Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. When made into sparkling wine by itself, Chardonnay is known as blanc de blancs and Pinot Noir is called blanc de noirs.
A Love Affair With Bubbles
With so many variables in its production, you might think that selecting a sparkling wine would be an overwhelming task, but that’s just not so. First, remember that the hallmarks of any good sparkling wine are tiny, persistent bubbles and a delicate foam head. In proper parlance, that steady stream of bubbles is known as a fine perlage, and one looks for a good mousse in sparkling wine, not a good head (it’s not beer for goodness sake!).
Each wine house has its own style in terms of the blend of the base wines. If you like more flavor, then go for one with more Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier in the blend—or all black grapes (Blanc de Noirs). If you like them light and creamy, as I do, then head straight for the Blanc de Blancs, made entirely from Chardonnay. In fact, bubbly can be, and is, made from virtually any kind of grape, so look for one that is similar to a still wine you fancy. More and more, I’m finding bars, restaurants and stores carrying a wide variety of sparkling wines. Be adventurous, try a rosé or a spicy, peppery dark zinfandel sparkling wine.
Despite my affinity for sparkling wine, you can take it from me that not all are great, not even when it comes to true Champagne. In fact, the cheapest, non-vintage ones are often wincingly acidic, and the less expensive sweeter styles (demi-sec, doux) can be cloying, probably due to clumsy dosage. When it comes to sparkling wines, much like still wine, the best are generally those that have been allowed to age properly. For bubbly, age will help to reveal the layers of creamy, buttery, nutty fruit, which is what makes sparkling wine so wonderful in my humble opinion.
Having said that, both age and vintage come with a price. If you don’t want to break the bank, here are some tips finding a great sparkling wine that is a good value to boot:
- Keep in mind that Champagne is a specific appellation, if you really enjoy vins de Champagne, consider one of the other regions in France that turn out bubbly at a fraction of the price. In particular, the Loire Valley, Burgundy and Alsace, all produce lovely sparkling wines. Farther south, you can try Crémant di Die, Galliac Mousseux and Blanquette de Limoux.
- Going domestic is another good option as well. Look for domestic wines made by good foreign producers. Here in the states, French houses like Moet & Chandon or Taittinger produce many elegant and tasty alternatives to the imports. Also, fine domestic producers like Schramsberg, Iron Horse, Scharffenberger, produce some wonderful sparklers. Granted these producers make a number of pricey wines as well, but they can be considerably more affordable than imports without sacrificing quality.
- Buy on sale and buy in bulk for the best values. You’ll probably find that the week after Thanksgiving and right after the new year, many Champagne and sparkling wines can be had for a steal. For a real bargain, buy by the case. A dozen bottles may be a lot of wine, but if you split a case or even two among friends, you all benefit from the case discount, which can be as much as 20%.
ONE final thought
Sparkling wine can certainly make a special occasion even more special, but don’t be afraid to pop a bottle for no reason at all. They make a great appertif, and can even be paired with food. Try a blanc de blancs with smoked foods, such as smoked salmon. Indeed, Champagne is great to cut through oily fish, especially a brut heavily blended with Chardonnay.
If you just can’t get beyond the myth that Champagne is only for special occasions, and open a bottle on any old weekday evening, just do what I do: create your own occasion. Last week I celebrated I-just-paid-the-electric-bill-Thursday.
Happy sipping...
